Original article: Pormenor – into the smallest detail
By: Niklas Jörgensen
About grandfather was the oak producer and dad’s choir manufacturer; then feel your own business in any way given. Then Pedro Coelho describes his decision to start his own wine list with two friends. Pormenor, detail in Portuguese, is only a few years old but has already attracted a lot of attention. Much because of a small but ever growing number of producers who want to express Douro in a different way than through extraction and new barrels.
Pedro is not a newcomer to the wine scene, but has previously worked on three wines in the country. That the choice fell on Douro was easy; Pedro loves the region. Or as he himself says, “I love Douro. I love wine. And most of all, I love drinking wine. Therefore, I would like to offer the consumer something that expresses Douro. And this is only possible if you do not change too much of the conditions the region invites you to.”
Pormenor works from four basic thoughts: old ranks, careful intervention in the basement work, lower alcohol and time.
The youngest ranks in the vineyards are today around 50 years and several are up to the century. Nothing beats age according to Pedro. The intervention in wine making is about not affecting the vineyard offering. The only one used is a smaller amount of sulfur, like antioxidant. When it comes to Pedro’s pursuit of lower alcohol in the wines, it is something that follows a trend that grows stronger in the wine world. Douro has hardly been associated with twelve percent but the prerequisites exist, you just have to be a bit more chopped. Pedro Coelho often starts the harvest a little earlier than is the case in the region. Everything to get the desired freshness, nevertheless, must never be at the expense of the maturity of the grapes. And finally he wants to give the wines time; needs a wine more time so he waits for the bottling.
Pedro has hired former Niepoort wine maker Luis Seabra as an advisor, something he hopes to continue with for a few years to come. Luis’s knowledge is sought after within the stage of minimal intervention and Pedro believes that he needs that input to become a better winemaker. That they are good friends does not make matters worse.
Green grapes are collected from the sub-region Douro Superior and the blue come from the classic Cima Corgo, the heart of the Portvins Valley. At the moment, Pormenor has four different wines on the market; a rose, two white and one red. There are two more red projects in the basement, wines he wants to give time before they are released. The total production is currently 30,000 bottles.
The Good of Life got the opportunity to try through the portfolio and it is undoubtedly hyper intensive wines that, in addition to being reasonably priced, also show off a page of Douro that many have yet to discover. The question is now, when can we see these creations in Sweden? Who cares first?
2016 Pormenor Ros é (89 LGP)
From the youngest (!) 50 years old logs retrieved grape material to Rosen that ferment and stored on the old FAT. Ruby red, transparent color. Even youthful bouquet with spikes of cherry, orange, herbs and stendamm. Extremely delicious nose. The taste is chic but still but refreshingly orange-like acid, a small toothin bite and whining pure fruit. A personal, superb rosé completely free from the prevailing South French ideal.
2015 Pormenor Branco (89 LGP)
The two white wines consist mostly of rabigato, malvasia fine and codega do larinho but, as always, the old ranks and Douro, there are several others. The instinctive wine is brilliant and 2015 is a great vintage for white dry in Douro. Storage of yeast deposits in steel tanks until bottling. Much Douro in the scent that interferes with the planting state; model, stevedam, citrus and stone fruit. A tight gum feeling with cool fruit, citric acid, herbal touch and fine concentration. Enjoyable without a doubt, but for those with patience it will develop in a few years without a doubt.
2015 Pormenor Branco Reserva (91 LGP)
The white top wine is undoubtedly worth following. Natural yeast, storage on yeast deposits in used French oak barrels for 10 months. During that time no temperature control, no stirring, no malolactic conversion. Reminds of the instegvvin fragrance but everything is x 2. The more floral, dense yellow fruit, stendam and the fat carefully in the background. Dense taste, deliciously wrapped acid, stone fruit and a gravel mine minerality. Long, whining pure citrus aftertaste. Very promising if good today.
2014 Pormenor Tinto (88 LGP)
Old ranks on touriga franca, tinta roriz, tinta amarela and even the classic rufete growing at higher altitudes. 2014 was a Douro wet vintage. The idea of the red is a wine that never builds on power, but is going to attract the more finely tuned. Storage takes place in used French oak barrels. Initially, a little foul smell, though, is quickly raining. Cherries, herbs, licorice root and stevedamm. A splash of violin with air. The taste is medium, cool and with tight wear tones, a little stiffness and light stiffness. Fresh acid and a slightly smoky minerality. Few teaches associate this with Douro. Good now, wins on certain storage.